The conflict of political interests had spewed venom, but not enough of it to make this beautiful country accept defeat. Neither could Covid 19 pandemic. Vietnam with one of the least infected cases in the world and zero mortality till today when the write up is being created has started easing social restrictions from 23rd April. Many sites of attraction have opened or are about to reopen. There might be some entry restrictions allowing a fixed number of tourist footfalls per day to avoid any new surge of infections. This would be the new normal for every tourist destinations and is likely to stay for the next couple of years or so.
Non-essential services have also opened barring the discos and parlours. Although international flight operations are yet to resume, vacationers can plan in advance to visit this country after lifting of international travel restrictions.
A mountainous terrain sharing borders with China, Laos and Cambodia, Vietnam had its blueprint drawn up in heaven no doubt. Tourism in Vietnam saw record highs last year with a 20% rise in foreign tourists.
I was fortunate enough to get hooked on a 4 days tour package. From what I could gather tourism here is undergoing a massive transformation. What attracted me most is the beautiful fusion of Western offerings with authentic Asian aesthetics. This is what I have been looking for since long! Sand and sea continue to be huge crowd pullers. If you are looking for a luxe touch, recent developments will give you the feel.
Arrived at Noi Bai International airport, Hanoi and met the cab driver holding a sign with my name on it. The cab was fine but a little cramped without much luggage space to boot. He had packed the car with his chattels and drove me to the hotel.
Day 1:
P.C. hanoifreelocaltours
My first visit was to Ho Chi Minh Complex, a place of social gathering. Vietnamese people pay respect to Uncle Ho, the founder of the Vietnamese communist party. It’s almost a pilgrimage attended with fervor. The complex is captivating with prim garden, memorials, pagodas and their elegance making a lasting impression on the mind.
The house where he stayed is a typical traditional Viet living unit raised on stilts; a simple structure reflecting modest lifestyle. This house has a garden and a small tidy pool where a koi family swims in grace. In the complex stands the one pillar pagoda, in the centre of a lotus pond.
The structure, the quintessentially sacred entity in the country is symbolic of the lotus flower. The sanctum inside the pagoda is dedicated to Vietnamese Buddhist goddess Quan Ann. She has an image built inside a tiny temple. Leafing through guidebook I was reassuring if I was missing any spot. A monk was studying me from a small distance and came closer, asked my nationality in fluent English.
A conversation started, he took to Monkhood at 11. A pack of Mevius he carried apparently did not matter with the potentially delicate issue of smoking among religious people. I was about to ask but checked my curiosity I may be invading privacy. We walked and crossed the complex fringes; I admitted how amazing his country was. Nothing compared to what it used to be, was his reaction.
Pain in his voice indicated wound in the heart. The war had left a legacy of damage on crop, infrastructure and life. The road to recovery seems long but not endless. Viets have iron grit, they have proved it and they will prove again! He lit a Mevius cigarette, puffed a long drag and bade goodbye. The man was lost in the crowd.
Visiting time: All weekdays except Monday and Friday
Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday: 7.30 AM- 10.30 AM
Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays: 7.30 AM-11.00 AM
Winter Season time (from 1st Nov-31st March of the following year): 8 AM- 11 AM
Fares:
Ho Chi Minh Complex: Free
Ho Chi Minh Museum: 40.00 VND
Ho Chi Minh’s House: 40.000 VND/adult
Dress Code: sleeveless shirts, tank tops, shorts, miniskirts not allowed.
Camera, mobile phones and video recording not permitted. Children below 3 years are not allowed.
The Temple of Literature:
P.C. culturetrip.com
My next stop, the Temple of Literature. My guidebook was the only trustworthy companion, didn’t go experimenting for a hired guide. Things can go tricky. People pose for photographs and demand money. In Coliseum in Rome, I have heard, dummy gladiators pose for photographs, they look amusing. You never know if there is a string in between at the other end lies a motive for money extortion. Any discord may invite a fight with the gladiator and that is very real. Quick conversion of amusement into threat takes you by surprise!
Built in 1070, it was a recognized seat of learning and one of the most appealing spots in the country. The building gets a clean up on a regular basis and much of the knowledge shared with students was on the premise of Confucian philosophy. Perhaps proximity to the Chinese border in the north could be an explanation.
Architecture belonged to traditional Viet School, its patios, galleries and causeways were used by the nobility. At the outset the doors were opened only to aristocrats’, later merit took over class. The Temple of Literature is set in a pristine stretch of turf with rows of trees and peppered with applause in travel magazines. The trees are very old and offered relaxed shade to students.
Opening hours:
All days of the week except Saturday
From April-October (summer): 07:30- 17:30
From October – April (winter): 08:00 – 17:00
Entrance fee as on 2017:
Adults nearly $ US 1.3/head
Students: $ 0.7/head (student ID required)
Children below 15 years: Free
Dress Code: Sober and casual; no short skirts, pants or tank tops
The Museum of Ethnology:
P.C. Holidify.com
My next drop-in was to the Museum of Ethnology. It is a wonderful journey into the culture and lifestyle of ethnic tribes of Vietnam. A potent canvas in color and a revelation of untouched areas of civilization left me spellbound. Exhibits ranged from stuff of everyday use to tiny models of dwelling houses reflecting a sense of aesthetics among different ethnic tribes.
It included an auditorium, a library and a research centre, all of them focused on a crucible of cultural blend in regional diversities. The museum showcased around 15000 artifacts including photographs and audiotapes. It supplied an effective and interactive link with the museum visitors. The display boards were in English and French. In the evening I was scheduled for a Cyclo ride in Hanoi. You experience the traffic and the fun of it as you hit the roads.
A tight knot inside me was building up in the first few minutes of ride and it rang a bell. Almost the same feeling that I had in a ‘giant wheel ride’ back home in a neighborhood carnival! At least that was what I recall. That was Kolkata and this is Hanoi. Kolkata feelings chased me to Hanoi. After some bargaining we settled at a price, the Cyclo driver looked very clever. A glint in his eyes assured an exciting jaunt. But an artful smile somehow betrayed a vulpine craft I needed to guard.
Fate has made him learn from life, bitter lessons in his struggle for survival. Rush hours in Hanoi saw stifling heat going up a several notches. Unpleasant experiences may come in between you and the joy of travelling. Overcharging for rides, sale of street food at a price like highway robbery is not uncommon. It would be unwise to agree to prices quoting numbers alone. The mention of currency is important. Don’t be surprised if you hear him say “I have asked my price in USD”. And you have been figuring out your budget in Viet Dong. (1USD = 23000 Dong approx) Just think of the enormity of rip off!
You feel so obviously cheated and barely can ever conceive that the ploy could be so blunt and yet forceful. The crook shouts out, giving a sticky slant to the event, forcing you to agree to spare a bad scene. Not knowing the language is a handicap!
It was a strange paradox that I felt vulnerable and yet cool on the cyclo. It’s usually the driver who is in front of you in a ride. On a cyclo the scene is different; he operates from the rear as if putting you up as a shield. I felt open to traffic rushing in! Hardly any road rules exist here in busy streets, scooters run in all directions without any rhyme and reason. The moment you fear a collision the cyclo driver saves you from disaster.
His control over the ride is par excellence, steering the cyclo smooth and easy winding through a rush, mad and all screwed up. Yet no road accidents happen my salams to his skill! Vehicles shot at us and we dribbled past, soon I was quite enjoying the ride. The Old quarter of Hanoi is amazing and dotted with restaurants, colonial buildings, parks, schools and market places.
The driver was bubbling with energy and would stop at places educating me on the history of Vietnam, edifices and memorials. A little English and the rest in sign language worked for us. He knew the Old Quarters like the back of his hand.
Opening Hours:
Daily from 08:30-17:30. Closed on Mondays.
Hoan Kiem Lake and Water puppet show
P.C. Vietnamtravelguide
Centrally located this lake is a cynosure vibrant with life. When I reached, the sky had turned red. Tourists at waterfront bars were busy with sundowners. The lake shelters soft-shelled turtles. They are revered here and just about lauded to a status of celestial entities. The water was a shimmering gold in the dying rays of the sun disguising its actual color. A dark green sheet with ripples lapped the banks, it was a treat!
Thang Long Water Puppet Theater is a much sought after tourist haunt. It is a rich Vietnamese folk art of the Red River Delta and connected with rice farming and harvest. The sheen of light and fireworks added more flux to the puppet dance. Bought tickets and occupied seats, wished the gap between rows were wider, not enough leg space to relish a relaxed evening.
Puppets looked amusing in color and action. They danced to folk music, the puppet masters hid behind curtain maneuvering the rope- tied puppets with surprising adroit. One end of the rope had the puppets and the other end tied to poles worked from behind the curtain. Cute little dancers were made from some light wood else they would sink like dead weight.
Day 2: Hanoi – Ha long overnight cruise:
Itinerary included a trip to Halong Bay on an AC minivan. On the Bay, the cruise was on ship Athena. We reached Ha Long in 3 hours. The view was breathtaking. Rock formations broke water and the cruise was in the surreal waterscape. The horizon was a thin line between the sky and placid water. Athena was a dream ship lithe and streamlined!
I had booked an Executive suite with balcony on the first deck. The suite was well furnished; had a wonderful time spending 4 hours on the Bay. The sail was breeze along water corridors in between limestone karsts. Junks and sampans moved past us, they must be sailing to preset appointments. The ambiance was too good to be true exalted by scrumptious Viet cuisine served on board. Much of it was seafood caught fresh from the Bay.
Small bamboo boats were dwarfed by Athena. Boatmen alternated use of limbs working the oars. Sometimes it was both the hands and sometimes they rowed with legs alone relieving shoulders .Must be hell of an effort, the expressionless faces did not show any fatigue though. Bay eagles occasionally dived for a living.
It is not easy in the sky, not easy on the boat either. Struggle for existence is everywhere and from the privileged luxury suite I felt a little guilty. The cruise continued to the second day and had an amazing stopover. Before that it was a pulsating night with booze and band, DJ’s and dance on the floor whoopee.
Rounds of onboard games made the holidaymakers high and happy. The late night ball ended in a hearty dinner and some quality sleep on a snug king size bed. Sung Sot cave in Bo Hon Island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ship docked on the pier, we set foot on the rock. Way to the cave was lined with trees the atmosphere was serene with an exotic appeal.
It was way cooler inside the cave; stalactites and stalagmites fell and rose responding to dictates of the geological clock. Hundreds of neons lit them up in an alien luster. Cruise ship Athena cut across emerald water further east towards Bai Tu Long Bay. Here tiny islands are scattered and the beaches are lonely and tranquil. The rush of tourism is low and the impact of commercialization negligible. The islands are thick with rainforests and the habitat remote and wild.
Day 4: Cu Chi Tunnel:
Arrived Ho Chi Minh City last night. Cu Chi Tunnel is rich in history marred with war casualties and gun smoke. The incredible web of tunnels has a significance being witness to the war. As much as the infamous Tet offensive being a turning point for the country. Guerrillas of Vietcong fighting an uphill battle against South Vietnamese troops were episodes of epic scale.
Now, the US and Alliance forces stepping in, the war took a more violent form. Hideous throwback inside Cu Chi was in the vibe. Conversation between tourists fell to whispers who were introduced to brief video snippets of painstaking tunnel construction. A lot of blood and sweat had been shed, a ceasefire was certainly imperative.
An underground bastion for arsenal, supplies and infirmary, it was a one-stop cover for Vietcong troops. Endurance and launching counteroffensive was the key to staying alive. A quaint river close to the tunnel had ducks and water buffaloes in peaceful coexistence. Neither the serene rice fields echo the shriek of carnage nor do lush woods remind us of defoliants used to devastate the land. The tunnel trip ended with tea and cassava, the frugal diet soldiers ate. Retired to Saigon hotel and more trips waited post lunch.
Independence Palace:
P.C.Nickswandrings.com
The Reunification Palace built as a renovation on the site of the erstwhile Norodom Palace, the imposing building is a grand affair; its design is the brainchild of architect Ngo Viet Thu. During the war, the president of South Vietnam resided and functioned from here. Its historical significance marking the end of war had been theatrical when a North Vietnamese army tank crashed through its gate.
It is hot and humid out here making beads of perspiration on the eyebrow. The sprawling lawn and fountain went well with the overall grandeur. The crowd was cosmopolitan, tourists and locals were in a tension-free slow motion footslogs approaching the palace interior. The interior featured luxury with decorative. Separate rooms for conference, office work, living, dining and corridors were all spick and span. Visitors were flocked around mementos and exquisite furnishings with a European influence.
Notre Dame Cathedral:
P.C. atlasobscura.com
Trip to Notre Dame Cathedral was preceded by an incident. Honesty in crowd is rare but not unlikely depending upon chance factor. My lost wallet was handed over to me by a local. Didn’t realize when it slipped out, he stared at me and smiled. A silent communication bridged our thoughts. He looked happy having helped a stranger and the man found a room of respect inside me.
The Cathedral is a goliath edifice ringing somber tone of faith and its twin spires stood high in the sky. The foundation was strong enough to support ten times the weight of the cathedral itself. No wonder it had lived through the ravages of war. But much of the tiles, originally French, could not escape damage.
They were later replaced by products of Saigon kilns. As a consequence of the French subjugation of the region, the Roman Catholic Church had set up a religious base for the French people here.
In 1962, Pope John XXIII blessed the Saigon chief Cathedral and the status of basilica was bestowed. We have the Saigon Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica since then. Arches and glass panes are an epitome of French art they shot back the evening sun in a sublime tapestry of color.
The Central Post Office:
This imposing building is the largest post office in South East Asia close to Notredame Cathedral. A reminiscent of French colonialism, the post office is an example of careful conservation. Though very much oriental in essence in few pockets in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), the echo of French occupation is strongly felt. The building’s arched windows with wooden shutters bore a sharp contrast with Oriental upward-curving roofs.
The post office looked like a huge cathedral and a big portrait of Ho Chi Minh hung at the far end of the building. Glazed flooring, panels and sleek looking counters and benches amazingly stood in a great visual balance with medieval arched ceilings. The interior captured a bygone era featuring old phone booths, letter writing desks and glue pots.
The atmosphere had an old European charm only if not the large portrait had been a grim reminder that I was at the heart of a strife-torn nation. The sun had touched the rim of the world soon dusk will be all-pervasive. The temperature started to wane as I made headway towards Saigon hotel.
Mekong Delta cruise:
My last day of stay in Vietnam was kind of a hurry exploring the Mekong Delta. This is a big river with tributaries emptying into the South China Sea.
Started at 6.30 morning, a bus ride from hotel reached us to Delta port of My Tho. To call Vietnam tour super without doing Mekong cruise is underselling its tourism potential. The small fuel-powered boat cut across smoky water. After a while, we got somewhat used to the chug of the engine. Herons flew low over us letting out squawks.
We left My Tho far behind and moved into a more scenic landscape. Viet rustic setting is splendid, vast stretch of paddy fields seemed never ending. Houses along banks were built on stilts giving them an iconic look. A very familiar construction identity in Southeast Asia but why on stilts, there aren’t any threatening wildlife in this region except Mekong crocodiles. Flooding could be a reason. River water overflows banks in monsoon causing havoc.
We touched the mooring at Kimmy chocolate factory supposed to be the largest in South Vietnam. Chocolates are handmade and delicious, a little bitter though and capable of matching strength with the branded ones.
We sailed on low tide keeping close to the left bank. Biodiversity is amazing with a large number of animal species. Vietnam tigers are up north and on a steady march towards extinction. Low water level exposes more of the bank leaving rotten fruits, plants and dead matter that may have been washed ashore. It becomes a feeding ground for scavengers. We skimmed the bushes, a fishing cat came in view.
Next, we came up to a fishing village. Houses were erected on stilts! Nets were stretched taught, fastened to poles and hum of flies went on and off in a rhythm. Children flocked around tourists with expectation in their eyes. Unfortunately, I had nothing to share except smiles and a brief photo session. They weren’t a bit camera shy.
The heat was slowly rising it was noon. We were treated to Viet lunch rounded up with fruit and honey. Lunch done we were sailing towards Bang Lang stork sanctuary. This is a peaceful refuge for birds located in Thoi Bin hamlet. Our boat hit the jetty and from here we were to go walking.
P.C. Alotrip
We crossed a wooden bridge and went through orchards; trees were laden with ripe fruits. Felt like scrumping a few if not the guide had warned us against grove centipedes. These insects must be very repulsive although fried versions in Saigon street food kiosks didn’t look bad. Twenty species of Storks and we could see only a few of different sizes. Not only the storks, herons, egrets, ibises and flamingos had made a large and noisy rookery.
Before sunset, more storks were foraging the marsh for evening grub. Shutters clicked and treasured images captured. This sanctuary is a natural development in the early 90s. More birds started inhabiting getting signals of security and assurance of food. Storks find a position among locals. The birds are a symbol of hard work and integrity. My thought chain was broken our guide had asked us to call it a day; walked backed to the jetty carrying wonderful memories and heart full of love.
simplyroam 