Train bragging – Can this growing travel trend help in sustainable tourism

Karin waited at Goteborg train station deep in thought over the current publication of European Geographical Studies. She was trying to concentrate but a vein on her temple throbbed with fury. Not after a row with hubby Jan for overdone veal. Not even little Oliver’s poor grade in mathematics bothered her much. It was aimed at those dopes traveling by air. Could people be so irresponsible to environment!

Every flight leaves behind a trail of filth gently settling down over the city. Each whit of carbon finds a way into lungs making pulmonary disorders a Swedish household malady. People should be traveling by train for a reason and it is strong enough to offset their craving for air travel. In fact, brief flights are more injurious to environment than the long haul ones. Emission of 250 gm of Co2 for every passenger-kilometer should book everyone on board to the crime of homicide. It is utter neglect of the surrounding air, shutting your senses to burning environmental issues where distances below 500 kilometers could easily be done by train.

Boarding the green rail

Hi-tech Swedish trains are a green and pollution free option to travel and could reach you faster.
For a comparison, long haul flights looked less damaging. They spewed gas, estimates kind of averaged out at 110 per passenger -kilometer. It is an offense against humanity,after all, length of flight is only an excuse. 

Night train to Ljungby arrived in stilly mode shortly as smooth as a knife through butter. Europe is way too fast and modern in infrastructure. Technological strides have been very big and acoustics have been brilliant, you can hear a pin drop. Karin collected her luggage, buttoned up her fur coat at the collar and boarded her steps had a clear sense of purpose. At least she had done her bit, changing traveling habits of those airborne morons isn’t her business.

Train bragging, the growing travel trend

Green travel is spreading fast. ‘Tagskryt ‘ also known as train bragging is the new rage in Europe. Who would bother to fly and pollute the environment with carbon emissions when an alternate means exist? Train bragging is a national pride among Swedish commuters as much as their aversion linked to ‘Flygskam’ or flight shame is quite strong. 

Trains run on electricity with almost no carbon footprints. Besides they are far cheaper modes of travel less painful on your wallet. The most powerful debate in favor of train travel is its ability to deliver access to natural panorama.

Ample scope of exploring landscape and nature in its raw form exists in train journeys. A definite form of wellness travel is guaranteed in train travel as against the long formal waiting time at airport terminals contributing to stress. Lengthy customs checking, jetlags and soaring prices of air tickets may be going against air travel.

Damage to air quality is the Achilles heels of airlines.  Flight shaming arising out of environmental concerns may soon force fleets of aircraft to stay grounded. Unless environmental issues are resolved by use of eco-friendly bio-fuels, the planes would find it hard to get an air-connection.

Rolling the wheels of train bragging

Sustainable travel trends of 2020 would certainly see more people opting for train travel instead of flying. Do we see a similar situation outside Europe? We will investigate this area later. 
It all started in Sweden when a 16 year old student Greta Thunberg went up in arms against air travel. She is one of the most vocal climate activists practicing her convictions instead of preaching dos and don’ts.

Personal involvement is far effective when influencing mass opinion.
Her target of raising consciousness about the impact of air travel on climate was achieved in a two week trip around Europe most of it by train. Later she did a solar-powered yacht trip to the US and Chile from Plymouth, England on a climate seminar. The flight shame movement in Sweden is fast gaining ground ever since Thunberg stepped into the scene.

Relationship between frequent flights and the falling quality of atmosphere wasn’t a new find. It was there with voices of protest coming up from different quarters. However, it lacked in force and thoroughness until the little girl Thunberg took up the challenge.  Fighting the demon of global warming is already a stressful project, now pollutants released by flights have taken a new bend aggravating the issue. 

Sensing alarm for the flying industry?

Studies reveal there would be a drop in growth of the US air travel from 2.1 % to 1.3 % which is alarming for the aircraft production industry. Order booking numbers for both Airbus and its competitor Boeing would slump by 110 every year. These companies would take the hit of falling revenues as predicted by the bankers to the tune of € 2.8 billion annually. Flight shaming movement would be a clear threat to Airbus’ reputation that has controlled a market segment of 57 %.

Is Train bragging catching up beyond Europe?

Responsible travel is the watchword as if saying goodbye to planes would add a fresh lease of life to planet earth. Flight aversion is not a growing cult in Sweden alone climate consciousness it is spreading fast to neighboring nations too. Studies by the Union Bank of Switzerland reveal a sharp downward trend in flying habits and instead, train trips are endorsed.

A sample survey of 6000 folks across Germany, France, UK and US interviewed, disclose a 21% drop in air travel records over last year. Just 16 % of British interviewees admitted they weren’t flying any longer but 24% of Americans still couldn’t shake off flight addiction. A big blow is coming up for aircraft makers as UBS has announced its fears about future of air travel. Airtravel across the European Union would register a growth of 1.5% only annually against a forecast of 3%. Flight shaming movement looks like it’s going to put the airlines business to doom anytime soon. 

Sustainable travel is a prime target in travel plans bringing green travel in focus. Among people moving from London to Scotland, train bragging is clearly visible. Commuters look keen on washing away carbon footprints as well as onus together opting out of air trips.
If flight shaming has started digging the grave, train bragging has ceremoniously been hammering in the nails into the coffin where the prospect of airline industry lie.

Ditching the sky

The source of the phrase ‘flight shame’ is traced to Swedish singer Staffan Lindberg’s decision to stop traveling on plane. The vision of damage to climate has shaken him up pretty much. Carbon emissions from flying planes are equated with smoking. It is as offensive a habit if not more. The latter is confined to personal health hazard which is a matter of choice though not advised for sure. But the former is far more universal and is encroaching into a domain that you have no right to harm.

Across the globe the trend of cutting down on air travel has gone conspicuous. Environmental awareness is transmitting fast, perhaps faster than the planes themselves. In Europe, 21 % flyers admitted that they won’t go up again in air in future trying to put an end to their contribution to air-pollution. For a contrast, there is every reason for train riders to celebrate their carbon neutral travel choices. They are cleaner, greener and as quick for short distances. Train bragging would rule the future of travel it seems.

So we have a glimpse of future world where airplanes are banished to hangers. They stand idle with folded wings awaiting an inglorious fate for onward demolition and sale of parts for alternate consumption as scrap. People will cut down on flights to meetings; they would take the train instead. They may opt for videoconferencing altogether instead of flying to a meeting for the sake of a greener environment. I am afraid this sustainable travel would come at a price and travel time will be the first casualty. 

Flight shaming – Not always the right path

Now are we talking about all kinds of air travel including vacation trips and serious urgent hauls which if missed may end in loss? Climate poisoning simply doesn’t analyze if it is caused by flying holiday makers or by patients being carried by air -ambulance to specialty clinics. So whatever fractional gain in environmental health achieved by saying no to planes could be annulled by lengthy train journeys failing passengers in their commitments. 

Emergencies for medical reasons are more important than climate conscious movements leading to aircraft boycott. Urgent dispatch of the sick and victims of an accident to hospitals is a case in point. At least for long trips, reaching destination fast can save a life. Trips by air done in an hour would be dragged to more than a day by train.

Duration matters

Will this option for carbon neutral travel make good the losses arising from overall delay in life?
Flight shaming or train bragging whichever angle you see the trend of travel is a radical shift. Deteriorating quality of atmosphere from smoke pumped from aircraft is mostly an obsession with the European travelers. The chief reason is geographical. From one end of a country to the other travel options don’t make much difference in time gained or lost countries being small. Even movement from one country to other within Europe is just a few hours away. Two extreme ends of Europe, Denmark and Italy could connect in less than 5 hours by train.

For that matter, high speed train connects Paris and Luxembourg in little over 2 hours. You can travel by train while enjoying the scenic beauty and ensure you are not ruining the ecosystem. The entire Europe features a manageable size where you go places by train and still not lose out on important time schedules. 

For other continents like the Americas, Asia and the Down Under, their sheer size would make end to end  train travels a time consuming affair. The size of the countries included are large enough what to talk about continents! In Africa, the terrain is inhospitable and the run is along wilds inhabited mostly by dangerous big fives.

Train travel would be far too risky even if the tracks are laid. Railway infrastructure in other parts of the world still does not catch up with European standards to guarantee a smooth and speedy travel. So doing a leisurely train journey in vast countries like Russia, China, Brazil and India would mean staying away from work for a length of time just not affordable. 

In Sweden, the employment policies are relaxed making long train journeys possible. Swedes enjoy a minimum of 25 government mandate days of paid annual leaves in addition to normal holidays. So long train trips staying away from workplace isn’t a big deal. For a comparison, the US incumbent policies are more stringent offering no paid vacations. Doing long train journeys is simply not possible it would lead to loss of pay.

As inference for most parts of the world, flight shaming is more of finding a scapegoat rather than locating appropriate sources of air pollution. Cement and concrete producing plants contribute to a substantial proportion of Co2 poisoning of atmosphere. Why isn’t a movement coming up in any part of the world to explore possibilities of more eco-friendly cement alternatives?

Sustainable tourism is limited in train bragging

In all probabilities, train bragging doesn’t sound sacrosanct. It is not a solution to keep atmospheric pollution under control in one hand and meeting travelers demands on the other. A number of conflicting targets concerning travel and its impact on climate need a tradeoff. Outright vilification of a specific mode of travel and glorification of another mode is not a fair answer.

Whatever may be the result of efforts made to free the atmosphere from carbon clog, Thunberg’s endeavor is commendable. Her tender age and her deficiency in motor coordination could not place a barrier to her efforts. It is like throwing down the gauntlet outright no matter how far she succeeds in her mission. At least she has given a dedicated try.

A cultural pilgrimage to Shantiniketan (The Abode of Peace)

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A weak net connection was disrupting my focus. Several attempts to book a reservation from Bolpur to Howrah failed. I had asked my Toto ( Tuktuk, the battery operated three wheeler ) driver to take a break. Fingers failed to connect the right buttons  as the ride along dusty trail was far from uniform.

The vehicle was  parked beside a shade of Sal grove. Sweet melody poured out from a  mud house  amidst the grove. Visit to Shantiniketan (The Abode of Peace), Bolpur  had been in my mind and this  morning  I could make it!

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Shantiniketan – The Abode of Peace:

Peace and tranquility reign in Bolpur.  Once an unknown part of rural Bengal in East India caught fancy of Maharshi Debendranath Tagore, father of  Rabindranath Tagore. Densely surrounded by huge Chatim trees and Sal groves, he discovered this place appropriate  for reconnecting one’s own self with the surroundings and thus the name Shantiniketan, meaning the Abode of Peace was rightly suggested.

The kaleidoscope of Bolpur got set in Tagore’s dream of raising a culture of broad based expression of mind and thoughts. Embracing diverse cultural landscape scattered across the globe was  core of the equation.

Literally, an abode of peace, here every support is available for shaping impressionable minds and sharpening  intellect . What is so special about the place making it a global cultural hot spot acted as a motivator.

Tagore’s Shantiniketan – Evolution of Indian philosophy, art and culture:

Shantiniketan and Tagore are inseparable in Bengali culture. While the world gets acquainted with Tagore through his words, one feels fortunate to explore a place where a personality of this stature had once made priceless contributions.

The Kanchenjunga express left Sealdah station sharp at 6-35 in the morning and was scheduled to reach Bolpur around 9-15. It was a little foggy. December had started its bite of chill.

Checking into the hotel wasn’t possible before noon but the reception offered a piece of valuable advice. That we book a Toto, start right away, wander along the  enchanting landscapes of Bolpur all day exploring Khowai, Kankalitala, Kopai river bed and sections of greenery that would come in our way. The journey would take a rough 8 hours after which we would rest in the hotel.

Apart from Shantiniketan, this rural area has other interesting aspects of cultural and tribal tourism rich in vibrant folklore, folk music and traditional art that is no less interesting. The place has the right kind of fodder for the culture-craving souls.

The next day, we can do Uttarayan, the cultural hub of Tagore estates covering the art galleries, museums and exhibits of priceless artifacts and Visva Bharati University Campus.

Kankalitala – The revered Shaktipith (Shrines based on Shaktism reflecting the power of Goddess):

Mythology associated with Gods and goddesses forms the pillar of rural Bengal culture and Bolpur is no exception. Kankalitala was about 8 kilometers from our hotel. A temple by the banks of Kopai river is a seat of pilgrimage.

Legend has it in the event of Tandava Dance by Lord Shiva, Lord Krishna intervened and stopped the universe from facing destruction cutting off Sati’s corpse by the Sudarshana  Chakra. Body parts flew in different parts of the country and the waist bone (Kankal) fell right here in Bolpur, Sriniketan. Thus, the name Kankalitala, a sacred site with a temple erected for worshiping Shakti.

The sky was bright. As the Toto sped along red dusty trail, cold wind struck us on the face. It was pleasant and relaxing. As usual, the temple was crowded with pilgrims. Hawkers peddled their  trade of  handicrafts and heaps of  sweets stacked inside glass. Business was smooth keeping efforts of vendors well sustained with cash flowing in from the tourists.

Sun rays threw a comfortable warm shaft on the temple frontage that felt good in the cold morning. As always, the entrance to the temple was crowded with derelicts. Plea for aid  made strong  by  display of whatever skills left – playing the ‘Ektara’ (one-string musical instrument largely used by folksingers of Bengal) and worn out harmonium. An effort to survive the curse of penury is a matter of compulsion. Choice has no place in their lives.

The charm of  picturesque terrain of Birbhum (red-soiled district of which Bolpur is a subdivision) unfolded as we raced along open plains.  Bright yellow mustard fields  ended in rugged plateaus of brown and green meeting the sky in the horizon.

By the side of our travel route, we spotted occasional homesteads enclosing groves. Almost every house here has a patch of green in the yard. Some belonged to locals and some owned by people from far-off places like Kolkata.

They spend here a relaxing weekend away from the  rumpus. Even putting their own properties up for vacation rentals is in trend. It is an excellent way to experience vacation as a local, staying in a residential area instead of one catering to typical touristy environment with a lot of hotels around.

Moving past  a wintry rural setting I was fascinated by fields that lay in rustic beauty where crops have just been harvested. Trail of bullock carts looked like formless long lines punched in red mud. We rode past  bards, threadbare and wretched who played string instruments under tree shades in run down humor that didn’t apparently betray  any troubled thought about  spending the next day. Poverty existed and possibly it did not make a dent in their elevated spirits.

Prakriti Bhavan – Nature art display:

We reached Prakriti Bhavan after half an hour. Nature artists have identified special features in natural formation of wood, tree trunks, branches, stones or metal parts. No additional sculpting or chiseling was  needed to achieve a definite shape or form.

It is the artist’s keen eye by which he could identify a bull head, bird, serpent or a cow from the naturally-shaped wood, stone and metal parts. An inexperienced eye is likely to miss these hidden objects. An official guide was doing his best to explain subtle nuances between one model and the other.

But  his  narratives soon lost audience to more visually pleasing  open air garden with natural rock sculptures  evincing  effort to connect man with nature through music, art and poetry.

Reasons for this displacement might have been either the guide’s sermon wasn’t very compelling or audience might have suspected paying too much attention to  all what he  said would end in a commitment for payment. It is wiser not to wait for the moment of embarrassment.

Srijani Shilpgram – Eastern Zonal Cultural Center:

 

Srijani appeared soon after, a melting pot of culture of eastern states of India with beautiful carvings and clay models.  The expansive space dotted with intricately-chiseled models, rock art and artifacts is simply mind blowing. An ideal place for art lovers and shutterbugs where one won’t mind spending an hour or two admiring art intermingled with natural beauty.

 

The artwork on the walls of small rural huts, each representing 8 eastern states of India was a feast to the senses. A stage has been set up giving an opportunity to folk-artists display their culture through lively music and dance. 

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A well-appreciated government supported platform to sustain the dying regional folk art.

A dance troop from Chattisgarh performed on open air stage. Pleasing music, vibrantly colored attire and the rural musical accompaniment treated us to a different world . Body movement and rendition are powerful enough to hold us spellbound even if  the lyrics are beyond grasp. Tune was drops of honey to the ear.

Rangabitan Tourist Complex:

We crossed Rangabitan, a West Bengal government tourism department lodge  complex, set amid Birbhum red mud magic, quaint woods and a mango garden. The accommodation  is reasonably priced answering the needs of  tourists well.

Amar Kutir (My Home):

Amar Kutir is where a large handicrafts center is set up. This is a time honored  institute featuring  endeavors of Tagore  inspiring the lives of locals, nurturing and molding their innate talents. A great example of sustainable tourism supported by the government.

Producing handicrafts and farming is not just an end in itself. Follow ups for locating a demand for niche skills to market the produce completed the cycle. The handicrafts center was a razzmatazz of delicate artwork.

A little expensive with an amazing finish, the wares stood in racks. Brittle clay pots and glassware were way too enticing.  “Once broken considered sold” was a standard tag that did not deter us from close exploration of the genius the terracotta  held.

The restaurant in Amar Kutir offered a gratifying lunch.  One cannot but help admiring food being served in brass cutlery, an honest effort to keep up with the long lost Bengali culture.  Coupon system of buying food was in vogue. A long wait between buying the coupon and receiving the plate made us somewhat grumpy.

The wait was at last rewarded with awesome food served hot! Spoons and forks hung on the stands. Piping hot Bengali lunch is not a ritual of knife and fork. It wouldn’t taste the same eating with fingers adds to its sumptuous voyage.

Sriniketan:

Visit to Sriniketan was a journey along a desolate road lined with trees on either side. A deserving enterprise by Tagore for agricultural promotional efforts who strongly believed uplifting Indian agriculture is important for the sustained growth of our nation.

A school imparting knowledge in skills and tricks on farming was meant for children from local hamlets who would learn and implement tricks of the trade for well-being of rural colonies. Irregular twitter of birds subscribed to unspoiled pastoral vibes.

Not very far was a Kali temple on the banks of  lake Krishnashayar. Mood was held in an awe-inspiring silence. In the temple yard stood a sacrificial altar.  A somber note hung in the air no matter whatever might have been the number of innocent animals butchered here, the haloed ground will  continue to be sanctified.

Ballabhpur Wildlife Sanctuary:

Ballabhpur deer park came in our route. The forest has a large herd of naturally bred deer. Existence of nature so close to Visva Bharati campus life opened up a man – nature interface that is necessary for much needed respite.

Established in 1977, it is one of the most successful deer conservation center. Large water bodies shelter a host of  birds welcoming seasonal migratory species as well. A  diversion from art and cultural exploration to observation of Cheethals and Blackbucks from close quarters is a desirable break.

Shonajhuri Haat – A signature blend of cultural and tribal tourism:

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It was a Saturday and Sonajhuri Haat ( rural market ) was as usual in roaring trade. A mela on the banks of Shyambati irrigation canal offered locally handcrafted jewelry, decorative pieces, cotton clothing and delicately chipped statuettes.

The Haat is laid out along one of the tidiest forests I have ever seen with its floor carpeted with flaxen Sonajhuri flowers. The atmosphere was pollution free and vehicles  not permitted inside the forest. Swarm of handicrafts men collect  from villages near and far vending produce from morning till sun down.

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Local folk dance and Bauls (folksingers) playing ektara  had an offbeat charm. Presence of natural formation of Khowai (a local term for soil erosion) in which Sonajhuri Haat is set added to its landscape beauty. Evolutionary development of small canyons from erosion by wind and river had wonderfully fused with the extreme eastern tail end of Chotanagpur plateaus.

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Haggle for prices is common and we bought some embroidery and craft work and ate pot full of Raabri( milk condensed on low heat and flavored with cardamom) that the vendors carried  on bamboo poles rested on shoulder.

It was around 5 in the evening and our shadows were cast long by  sun that would be in the sky for a short while. We headed  towards Kopai river bank. Our route was along a labyrinth of mud strip winding past  a tribal village.

This tributary of Mayurakshi river runs dry in summer and winter but spills over its banks in  wet monsoon. Soil is purple featuring ravines on the banks that had run for miles melting into wilderness in far off fringes. Decades ago,  packs of wolves roamed the grounds, they had been a part of local fauna now extinct.

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Inspired by the  pristine beauty of the region the Nobel laureate had composed immortal lines themed around Kopai river. A choir of singers  were rehearsing passionate numbers in  the backdrop of  red sun in its fading blaze that was about to sink. Our shadows seemed elastic they grew  in length.  A cold breeze blew in from the North. We boarded  Toto and moved in the direction of our hotel.

 Visva Bharati Campus & Museum:

Started around 9  the next morning. First stop was Rabindra Bhavan. Viswabharati  University building premises darted back as we moved ahead. Hostel buildings , Ananda Pathshala ( elementary school for kids established by Mrinalini Devi, Tagore’s wife),  the iconic Taal gaach (palm tree) shooting out through the thatched roof, the sprawling  Amrakunja (The Mango garden) ending in  majestic edifices and abstract artwork came in a row.

Tagore’s presence was felt everywhere. A tight security was in vigil. Vehicles were not allowed to stop save a few selected spots. We kept moving, awaiting a chance to stop and click the camera was hard though I had some success in my attempts.

Statues created by the renowned Ramkinkar Baij assumed an assortment of shapes. They are not chiseled with hand. Mounds of soft mud stand as a target and you got to chuck stones in soft mud until your dream is realized. It is far easier said than done but conveys a message if you are strongly driven success cannot be far away.

Rabindra Bhavan – The heart of attraction:

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Rabindra Bhavan housed a museum and that is fabled. Here 5 homes where Tagore stayed in a cluster known as Uttarayan complex draws tourists from home and abroad. Pieces of antique furniture and decor  is a reflection into a bygone era Tagore spent here in quaint peace spinning his gossamer dreams  that would have a profound impact on the society .

It archives 1580 original paintings by the laureate himself and 554 done by others. Besides 11380 priceless photographs, 3855 curios and 52 statues and certificates , mementos and memorabilia connected to signally fascinating aspects of the Poet’s life are all set in an absorbing presentation. Events from the past fascinate.

At times it becomes hard to reconcile the modernized thoughts and global quest for knowledge and information that boiled inside the poet in a timeline more than a century old.

Heirlooms were numerous and enchanting , like coffee pots presented to Tagore by tribal chief of some obscure African nation or a watch case set in ivory awarded by king of Siam truly attest to the fact that the man had an astounding global influence. Photography was strictly prohibited.

An international acclaim was bestowed when media of communication and logistics was way too primitive. He had succeeded immensely to put across his thoughts and tabled his hopes and fears on a global platform and that too in a regional language. Well that is another story my thoughts and words are too weak for an analysis.
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