Leisure – Page 2 – simplyroam

The thrilling trek to Borra Caves, Araku

The mouth of Borra Caves was as awe-inspiring as was the element of dismay following events from entry to exit. The size of the cave is a feature to reckon with, being the largest of its kind in the subcontinent! One route is from Vizag. Kirandul express, starts early morning and reaches Araku around noon. Borra caves come half an hour before. The trip by Kirandul Express was zero cool, the train crashing through countless tunnels of the Valley in the Eastern Ghat mountain range.

One moment we were in darkness and the next surrounded by lush meadows, spectacular valleys and distant hills. It was in March with heady vibes afloat in the air. Our mood soared riding an amazing spring carrying fragrance of nature. As expected, the train was packed, perhaps the imminent festival of Holi held an added charm.

Delving into the Borra Caves:

Close by the cave flew a spinning creek with an awesome view. Borra Caves, locally known as Borra Guhalu, comes from two words, Borra meaning ‘ Hole’ in Odiya and Guhalu stands for ‘cave’ in Telugu. Located in Vishakhapatnam district of Andhra Pradesh close to Odisha border, the region brings in a wonderful cultural fusion pronounced in language, culinary influence and demography. The deeper we went inside, the weaker the beam of light from mouth grew.

Stalactites and stalagmites figured from top and bottom. Some rose from the cave floor and some dropped from ceiling. They made a raft of baffling but picturesque geological layout. The temperature was a little low inside and the precipices along the wall at different altitudes were connected by stairwells. After traveling for some length it was completely desolate. Absence of tourists had made the already creepy feel stronger and I had it in my bones some alarm coming up fast. A few light bulbs flickered to make a frail halo.

We made a scrutiny of the wall up close in the hope of finding some primal mural but were disappointed. Artwork across the wall was indeed present. But these were baffling squiggles, occasional English letters displaying love lines and promises. Doodles faded out in places, that did not carry much information and nothing from the Stone Age that’s for sure. The artists were none other than modern love birds.

A rain of fine- grained rubble drew my attention up at the corner of the ceiling where a colony of bats had built their nesting bed. A few crawled along the moist cave wall. These were fruit bats sometimes feeding on insects. Bats couldn’t hold my attention for long. Soon after my gaze fell on a small group of tourists looking very tense.

They had lost one of their team mates who they searched with distraught. Sign of fear blanched their faces. In a cave so dark and menacing, what would be the fate of this lost soul? And what can cause a man to go trace less in a blind cave? There was no other way out. The whole group had their knickers in a twist.

Even in near darkness, the group confirmed he did not cross them the other way towards cave mouth. Mindless thoughts bred precarious possibilities. Presence of cenotes in Borra is very unlikely. If cenotes existed, accidental slippage into one of these could get him sucked in an undercurrent of whirlpool ! There was a chance he may have been hiding somewhere with mind-load of dark humor to scare his mates. Presence of carnivores? This would be the extreme of imagination, I have been reading too much these days and woke up to reality as wings fluttered around, bats were out on a flight for prey, guided by sound echolocation.

Was not in a mind to explore any further the incident had a spell of bad presage thrown in. I asked the tourists to contact cave authority immediately instead of launching a panicked hunt ending in confusion. Having had enough of Borra Cave, I groped my way and made it to the cave mouth; being directly under the sky once again was a step closer to relief!

Not far from the entry point stood a restaurant nice and cozy. The cave nightmare kept haunting, the missing tourist incident not well digested and I did not have an appetite. Turned my back on the restaurant and set off for the Araku Valley in a cab that took almost an hour. The jitters evaporated as the cab sped through coffee plantations, dense forests and scenic landscape.

Chaparai, Araku:

Our hotel was close to the railway station with dedicated staffs and good food. We were lucky to get a room with a breathtaking vista in front. A line of casuarina trees offered a view before being lost in an abrupt turn. Beyond that, dense Eastern Ghats vegetation grew in a tight cluster. Our first destination was Chaparai waterfalls and it was about 10 minutes by car.

We started early morning to capture nature at its best. The sound of flowing water was amplified as we approached Chaparai. Chance of getting our feet deep in water was irresistible against a backdrop with stealing beauty. Yes, Rocks were slippery and in places they were in dangerous incline. When you look up at the source, million crystal blasts in a medley of glittery color. Water droplets were set in a dance of blinding white made intense by the midday sun. Yet it was a great feel to enjoy water splash with other tourists clicking for great photo opportunities.

Padmapuram Gardens:

Picture courtesy: Tripadvisor

Padmapuram Gardens was not very far from hotel. A 5-minute drive could reach us there but we decided otherwise, could not defy the lure of making it on foot. It widened our travel horizons practically keeping us in livewire contact with the surroundings that sparked more zest. A solitary walk in peaceful morning with color of spots here and there was a desirable pursuit. If it was a hovering butterfly now it was bush of bright yellow flowers the next moment.

A rolling fruit struck my foot. Looked up and spotted a monkey, the act fits him. Must have thought what is distasteful to him must be delicious to me or perhaps it was a welcome gesture in his own way. Sensing my indifference he stealthily moved on. Must have found some other engagement.

A couple walked in front a few meters ahead munching on cookies and stopped by a local vendor who offered fried cashews.Half eaten cookies disappeared in travel bags. Cashews looked more engaging to the palate and seller and the buyer swapped smiles. The monkey had finally caught a lizard that it may have been trying to stalk. Traveling by the car would reach us to destination no sooner we would board. But we would miss these simple charms of life within the confinement of comfort designed in metal and chic upholstery.

The garden was neatly groomed. Diverse flora ranging from known species to exotic kinds kept me occupied. It may be a haven for botanists but no less enchanting for nature lovers. Rare breeds, ornamental flora, shrubs and tall hundred footers coexisted in an amazing habitat. Plant feed and water were well taken care of by the Araku botanical garden authority. Landscaping was beautiful and life-sized models of prehistoric reptiles kept the kids running around, beaming with vigor.

A lot of thought goes into sculpting these giant dinosaurs. The impact on tourists’ psyche, the effect of possible fun and fear on kids’ minds in particular is a significant factor. A well maintained nursery was a stunning show stealer that demanded around an hour of intense study. Saplings in tubs were nursed with affection before making them ready for journey through adulthood. Padmapuram garden is a laudable endeavor. It deserves a repeat visit!

Tribal Museum:

The tribal museum was about 10-minutes walk from our hotel, a nice place to explore the life of the Eastern Ghat tribes. There were separate sections for masks, game weapons, pottery, bird traps, indigenous jewelry and clothing. The stuff behind glass cases offered a vivid display of tribal lifestyle. Among museum visitors, a reasonable proportion belonged to local communities. It was an eye-opener that visitors showed such keen interest. The way the museum had portrayed their way of living is a reflection on the long journey from the days of hunting- gathering to spending time on social networking sites.

Have their lives been simplified by the advent of hypersonic tech world? The bait of gimmicks and its visible impact was what was expected from ethnic races amid new found globalization. For a frank opinion I was a little surprised that they were here instead of browsing net in a cyber café.

Walked a few yards to watch a fun archery competition held in the museum premises. Not to celebrate the marksmanship of participants but to have clean fun and skip where participation was more important than how one performed. My kid joined in the fun and later declined to continue after missing the target by clear half a meter!

There was something more to keep us absorbed. It was the Dhimsa tribal women who danced to the tune of a flute player and a drummer performing in concert. It was a wonderful combination of grace and class reinforced by an arresting springtime flavor. Appreciated the purpose of Museum Authority to showcase the cultural essence in all possible ways and what can be a better place than the museum premises? You get a glimpse of the culture and contribute to the sustainability of locals.

We were back by sundown. The night was almost as transparent as daylight. The full moon night will follow through to the festival of Holi next morning. Hotel staffs had organized a bonfire, a familiar ritual prior to holi. Makeshift structure of twigs and dry leaves get set on fire. Significance of this bonfire and its connection with the festival of color had never struck my mind. The only link lay in the soot left behind after the structure burnt down.

I recall collecting and rubbing soot across known faces I could lay my hands on. Instant gratification cared a fig for consequences of damaged relationships later. It was a lazy morning. As I was sipping coffee, my glance set on what all lay in front of me from hotel balcony. A black heap lay in a mass of charred ashes. This could have been a source of fun on the day of festival. But no one ran around with color. We finished a quick breakfast and set for coffee museum near Araku bus terminal.

The museum elaborated on history of coffee cultivation and farming methods. The guide spoke about ideal weather and temperature conditions, methods of farming, harvest and drying the pods and processing into powder. It broadened my knowledge with some insight. A strong aroma wafted from every corner of the room. It was quite crowded. We sampled the brew, it was strong.

Tyda Nature Camp:

Araku valley trip is incomplete without Tyda nature camp in the itinerary, located about 35 kms from hotel. I was in two minds whether Tyda would be a worthwhile trip, wasting a precious day in jungle instead of planning something sensible is not a viable option. It would have been a mistake not to give it a try as it turned out very soon. A human settlement at the foot of wooded Eastern Ghats is the landmark.

As usual we started early; the cab drove along a sliver of road that was in bad shape. The possibility of an accident cannot be ruled out. Thought of the missing tourist in Borra caves snaked across my mind adding to uneasiness that was still roiled in my core. I hastily cautioned the driver to get a hold on car speed. Going full steam is fun but certainly fatal once you lose control on grip.

The net connection was going erratic and trying to get hold of it was becoming a task. Tyda nature camp was terrific. It was a wet Tyda a half an hour’s rain came in light showers that was improbable in this season, Araku doesn’t get a downpour until late June. The forest woke up to our footfalls, a variety of bird calls responded to our presence. It didn’t sound like a warning against an unauthorized entry. It was green with dense bushes and trees shooting well over hundred feet into the sky.

The need for sunlight was a strong stimulus in response to which they grew in contest. Tree top foliage blocked out the sun casting a patch of gloom at the base. We stopped our car and relaxed outside pacing the ground back and forth with a hope to see our winged hosts. A luxury resort called Haritha Jungle Bells stood in tranquil forest.

It offered a splendid staying arrangement. Haritha is itself an attraction in Tyda Nature Park. Located at a height of 1000 meters, the resort promised luxury. The interior with tasteful decor was apparent from its up- market exterior. A nice and secluded nook to spend a few days shut out from the bustling city. It was a little out of the ordinary to find a modern structure in timber and concrete amid a vibe where harsh nature rules.

We stopped only for a few minutes here, we are to move on. Staying at Haritha was not our plan partly because it was expensive and partly for our tight time schedule. For those who can swing it financially, it is a fabulous stay. We drove straight ahead and so far field of vision could take us it was all green. Wildlife included rabbits, lizards, blackbucks, macaques and a number of bird species.

But luck wasn’t on our side we could see only a couple of rabbits scuttling in fright when our car almost ran into them. We parked car and went on foot to get some jungle trek. A hanging rope bridge was quite a dare to call up all courage and make it to the other end. Jungle safari and struggle to move through jagged ground was a big time amusement.

No transmission towers. No mobile alerts, we were disconnected from the civilization. Being off the grid poured on us blessings of digital detox ! The surrounding was absorbing. You won’t feel an impulse to sneak at your digital apps even if it was working. On our way back, we had bamboo chicken in Haritha. It was yummy! Thank God the restaurant is open to outsiders. Else finding a suitable eating place to refuel after a long trek would have been an ordeal.

Tyda nature camp is a torch bearer of sustainable tourism. Coffee, grain and veggies are all sourced from local farms. It is easy to mislead tourists mixing lie with traces of truth unless you are an expert at identifying cues of false claims of sustainable tourism. But Haritha’s efforts looked honest and not hyped by greenwash sewing up deals with professional marketing agencies. Neither was there any environmental abuse by way of dumping garbage by resort housekeeping nor did the tourists litter the ground with plastics and non biodegradable refuse.

After gathering a pleasant experience of Araku valley over a span of three days we started back for Vizag on APSTRC Bus. The valley is a hidden jewel in the crown of Eastern Ghats. This underrated destination should do better in terms of promotional exercise to achieve a bigger volume of tourist draw. Then again, the larger the numbers of tourists, more deeply pushed in would our carbon footprints be. A vicious cycle will fall in with head chasing the tail unless tourists themselves turn a little more responsible towards environment. Well, we hope for a sunrise someday!

Hollong – Exploring the wilderness

Padatik express was scheduled to depart for NJP (New Jalpaiguri Station) at 10-45 at night. It was a cold and smoggy witching hour before Christmas. NJP was only a night’s journey but as you never know when this slowcoach will reach you to your destination, a worry gnawed inside me. Fear of vacation time being drastically cut for late arrival would be too much to swallow. The express train was shamelessly doing justice to its name Padatik (traveler on foot) with religious irregularity.

Jaldapara had been in my bucket list since ages and we booked our trip well in advance. Jungles have always been my favourite stopover in between backbreaking treadmill of life. This is a National Park in Northern part of West Bengal at the banks of river Torsa.

The name portrays a familiar picture: tourists on elephant back stranded in a hair-raising showdown with an obstinate Indian one horned rhino about to charge! We set our foot in NJP around noon next day.

Locating our car to Holong Eco Resort was a delayed and frustrating exercise by itself followed by an exchange of phone calls and a string of silent cuss words. Car would take 4 hours and we were in no mood to starve. Cancelled our resort lunch booking and opted to have some grub en route. Bapi da’s cabin was driver’s recommendation. It was almost an hours’ drive after crossing Teesta barrage.

The restaurant owner was a local celebrity, his team of culinary geniuses toiled day and night working miracle in the greasy and claustrophobic kitchen. We had rice and generous helpings of spicy lamb. Now that we were appeased, the long rough ride flanked by tea gardens on either side had stirred up our feelings. Holong showed up around 4-30.

Khairbari Leopard rehabilitation center was just cut out for an interesting exposure to wildlife habitat that I was looking for. A fenced corridor was all that separated the wild cats from civilization, with enclosures covered in dense foliage. Khairbari was lot more than just a zoo. Thick forest thrived within the animal confines and on the outside too.

Sun set viewing offered terrific photo opportunities and the place had a look of picnic spot in a wintry noon. The centre housed around 15 wild leopards and Bengal tigers. They were mostly rescued from the forests of Dooars and Bhutan foothills.

Two tigers were from Sunderbans. Injury and senile decay would have killed these beasts unless timely intervention by forest department proffered help. Some had been destined for lifelong banishment in circuses. Morbid glimpse into the depths of animal misery in circuses manifest the quality of life within painted tents. And before the trainer’s whip! They have at last found a peaceful abode in Khairbari.

We walked along a long stretch of grassy pathway with an idyllic setting so far as eyesight would permit. It was a large circular track around, enclosing a menagerie at the center. Ample greenery somehow helped animals overcome the melancholy of habitat loss.

To our right flew the narrow sliver of ‘Buri Torsa’ river where occasional boating was allowed. On the left, lay feline enclosures. A creepy silence hung in the air. We walked for about two hundred meters before we could catch glimpse of a sleeping leopard. A little larger than a Doberman, but the size of paws made the difference!

We were outside the cage but not safe! Sign of rage was everywhere. An elephant had come out of the forest the previous night and had snapped overhanging twigs. A trail of destruction followed the animal’s footprints. A second assault would leave us with no other option but clamber the feline enclosure. Tigers weren’t visible possibly resting in shade of lair.

Tense moments passed and one of them stood up and made a stifled growl. It was a tigress that had suffered a recent miscarriage, we learnt. Dead cub foetus had been safely taken out by caesarean saving mother’s life. Deeper we went more desolate we felt. The nearest visitors to the centre were at least fifty meters from us.

We heard their voices, intensity of tone reduced by distance. Chance of second appearance of the mastodon clung to my mind with an icy cold dread. Evolution through ages might have shrunk their sizes but not the vicious instinct. We decided to retreat and made it fast.

Another tiger enclosure was only a few minutes walk from the entrance. We had missed it in a hurried curiosity to witness the aftermath of elephant going manic. Nothing was visible; an empty piece of grassland lay across a moat. Tiger was certainly on the other side hiding somewhere. This side of the moat a five feet concrete wall ran close to the fence circling the entire enclosure.

Unsettlingly powerful, a stench hit us instantly with a scary apprehension that in absence of breeze how come the stink travel up to us from lair? A few minutes have passed when a massive shape of orange emerged from the moat. It’s rear side directly facing us. First the huge muzzle, the powerful shoulders, hindquarters and gradually the whole beast came into view.

It had been very close to us cooling off in water that explained the overpowering stench. The animal had been blocked from vision by the skirt wall. This was a large tiger. Sun threw long silhouette of the animal on grassland. The setting sun in the background blended with an uncanny threatening snarl building up the atmosphere. The beast was probably hungry. We backed out and boarded the car after a few quick camera shots. Destination was the Hollong Eco Village resort.

Khairbari rescue centre is a constructive endeavour, nursing back infirmed large cats to health and happiness. Illegal poaching is yet another plight through which wildlife population is going. It’s hard for forest officials to fix an overnight solution to the issue. Gradually, things are looking up. Let’s see how everything pans out for future.

We reached resort within an hour and the staff organized refreshments and mild hot tea. Without much preamble we reached important points quickly straight after tea; discussed itinerary, local interests and the safari at Jaldapara wildlife sanctuary.

Resort management promised every support but flatly refused offering any help in the safari and getting tickets. We have to do it all by ourselves. This was an unpleasant surprise. The tour agent had promised otherwise. Was it a kind of tourist trap now that we have been in their grip? They were trying to pull wool over our eyes to squeeze some extra buck !

Dinner at the resort was good. Chicken, chapattis and Dal and before that authorities had arranged a small bonfire in the front yard and a huge Christmas cake adding to the charm of a typical Christmas night . The fire had comforted us against shivering cold but the uncertainty of safari gave us niggling discomfort.

The resort is in the lap of nature. You cross the boundary fence you are inside dense jungle. We would explore it and the surroundings first thing tomorrow at the break of dawn. Early next morning, it was bone chillingly cold. We put on jumpers and walked towards the jungle that had commenced from the edge of resort boundary.

Once inside the forest, it was mute and peaceful. Broad-leafed evergreens grew rife. The soft sunlight had burned away the pre dawn moisture exposing a colossal quiet domain where boondocks ruled. Unknown species of orchids and creepers hung intertwined.

At ground level vegetation, grew up to man height that trapped low ground fog. We went further deep and were completely mesmerized by the beauty creation had bestowed upon nature shrouding it with mystery. We had been travelling on foot all the way and had to be careful stumbling on fallen sprigs and slippery earth.

A stream flowed by. The water was cold and crystal showing pebbles and strands of vegetation washed down from the distant hills. We made good use of soft light and the lens. It was breath-taking and packed with thrill .Sight of mounds of elephant droppings alarmed us. They came over so close to resort in a feeding frenzy. Further venture would be risky! These are wild rogues. They won’t deliver any benefit to us. We retreated back and reached the resort by 7 am.

My video shoot continued capturing many other interesting elements. Next morning, at the breakfast table, the resort owner enquired about my video shoots. Suspicion in eyes reflected inner guilt. His attitude last night had been a little rude on safari issue. News of my working for the media sort of straightened up things for us.

Things worked at an enthused pace. Process of garbage disposal sped up. Behavior of staff had turned courteous. Food was served with extra care. It wasn’t surprising when some extra plates of meat went wandering around tables before being set before us. We modestly refused any favor not paid for.

At times you need to hammer the nails in place. Needless to say, soon came the obvious concurrence to take care of our safari with all official formalities. It was worded by the owner with firm commitment. What the resort lacked in its primary dealing with customer was later ponied up by outstanding service.

Safari booking office at Holong was crawling with tourists. We reached here soon after breakfast. Two trips were made in a day for duration of 2 hours each. Early morning 5-7 am trip was in great demand. Chance of wildlife viewing was high. Evening trip from 3-30 to 5-30 pm pulled less crowd.

Tickets were available for evening trip, but dawn safari would be booked out shortly after the ticket counter opens. We opted for the dawn trip and that was possible only the next morning. Ticket counter would open at 6 pm. We had adequate time and our cab driver fixed a local guy on tips to get a proxy for us in booking queue. Meanwhile, we could make a quick trip to Phuentsholing, the first town crossing the international border into Bhutan.

Road to Phuentsoling snaked along the outer realm of eastern Himalayas. We drove past a Bazar crowded with locals and shops. Liquor shops were rampant. Merchandise ranged from slices of pork to tiny replicas of Buddha. As we rode higher up the mercury started dropping. On the way lay a crocodile farm. Long snouted Gharials and salt water crocks lay in sun. They were well fed and big.

Phuentsoling Monastery was an ornate cluster of stupas and structures that evoked faith. Prayer flags flapped in gentle breeze setting up a silent communion with the celestial. Buddhism is the primary religion in Bhutan. An element of devotion prevailed. We tossed around enormous brass prayer wheels of the Monastery murmuring our desires with intense mindfulness.

Phuentsoling was done. We drove back to Jaldapara safari booking counter around 3 in the afternoon followed by a long wait. Elephant safari was out of question. It is reserved for those put up in Holong guesthouse. We battled for the gypsy safari.

The much awaited Holong Safari !

Ticket counter opened sharp at 6 in the evening and what initially followed was bedlam until a couple of local goons enforced order in the queue. Tickets procured and we retired early keeping in mind the next day’s morning safari commenced at 5 am.

26^th December. It was still dark and nipping cold. My watch read 4-30 a.m. We prepared hurriedly in the freezing dusk groping our way to the resort restaurant. Hot tea laced with a dash of ginger early dawn was invigorating.

Resort car arrived and it reached us to an open ground adjacent to the safari booking counter. Rows of gypsies were parked and from here safari would start. Located our vehicle by the number printed on tickets and sat inside. Safari guide and rest of the family occupied rear end. It was still dark when the vehicles entered the forest in a close convoy.

A bitumen road was cut right through the sanctuary and our vehicle sped along. Huge trees grew on both sides. The jungle was inky green. The sky had started to clear and a faint pink impression announced day break. The light was tender and not enough for clear visibility . Vehicle’s headlights shot a pair of strong glimmer. Birds chirped and the morning chill clung like icy sheets.

Thick bushes were ubiquitous and a shallow ravine was bridged by a collapsed deciduous tree. Could be work of unauthorized lumbering. Timber smugglers sometimes sneak into the forest evaluating and exploiting commercial opportunities.

Clashes and conflicts with forest guards do happen. Chances of collusion with forest staff cannot be ruled out opening up lucrative contacts with forest wealth that they don’t hesitate to amass. But this one looked like it had been struck by thunder.

The forest had a mixed floral character. Savannah land and tall elephant grasses occupied a substantial area. Tall forest included teak, Sal, shishu and many others which I could not identify.

The vehicle abruptly halted when the guide threw a powerful beam from torch to our right. Almost sunk in neck deep vegetation, a hog deer silently fed on succulent grass. We paused for a minute or two and proceeded forward. Soft morning light lit up the surrounding herbages.

After about a quarter of an hours’ ride we met the first rhinoceros. It was quietly feeding and was set alert upon our arrival. Quite surprisingly, despite its bulk a rhino can break into an explosive run. Their stealth is prodigious and rhinos are competent of exceptional brutality. Over courtship rights males fight each other inflicting deep lacerating wounds.

Only a few months back a forest officer was found in the bush. Body showed deep injuries. Nature of wounds point a finger towards a rhino attack! The large animal looked like an army tank. It emerged from the forest, crossed the bitumen road and melted into the thick shrubbery on the other side. Adrenaline rush was peaking and we parked in an open area beside which stood an animal observation tower.

Close by, an elephant was tied to a stout tree trunk. The animal belonged to the forest department. It had recently turned rogue killing two Mahouts. It was going through a punishment session being fed lesser ration of fodder. Wonder if jungle crew are secured by insurance cover. Insulation against these casualties is imperative if not already available to the family of the deceased.

Climbed the watchtower. Vast stretches of grassland with occasional overgrowth of plants spread out so far as vision could take us. Panorama was breath-taking and the faraway hills offered a spectacular backdrop.

Grazing rhinos at a distance brought some excitement. Tourists on the watchtower tried to zoom in the animals to focus. It was amusing to watch these creatures. They wore a prehistoric look and were engaged in a playful squabble.

A sudden yell had broken my trance. A herd of wild elephants had been sighted within a kilometer. We rushed to the spot and saw the herd from a distance of 25 meters. The bull was shoulder deep in grass and possibly furious with our intrusion. We were lucky that a huge fallen teak wood trunk was in its line of attack blocking any further advancement towards us.

We realized, despite its bulk how skulking an elephant could be. In most of the cases, the target becomes aware of its presence just before the enormous mass pounds on him. The victim generally doesn’t survive to narrate his experience. My watch showed 6-45 am. Safari was coming to an end. Our vehicle raced for the sanctuary’s exit gate with a troop of macaques chasing us with mischievous intent.

Captivating Coorg

Welcome drink of ginger wine was only a faint hint at the warmth of hospitality coming our way from Prasad family, the owners of coffee garden homestay, a breath-takingly quaint abode set amid lush coffee plantations of Coorg, in Southern Karnataka.

Spread over a sprawling estate the living quarters featured a lot of greenery, an open front yard for drying ripe coffee beans after harvest and a large backyard allotted to organic farming of vegetables. A deep pond lay close by from where irrigation water was sourced.

A pack of guard dogs ensured security to the master,as did a skein of ducks, no less threatening than the dogs themselves. The birds would charge trespassers to the estate with a shared fury – a show of loyalty to the estate owner. Heads pointed low in a stubborn threat and a high pitched chuckle would make strangers run to avoid an assault .

We started the night before from Karwar, a sea side picturesque town known for exquisite beaches, the distant Western Ghat mountains and a lot of fresh catch of marine fauna ready for the market. It was an overnight journey to Mangalore, where we boarded another bus to Madikeri , a hill station not far from Coorg , the principle coffee belt of India.

It was spring and the forest was in full bloom. Its indigenous vegetation included a wide array of familiar trees and some were completely new to us. Teak , Sal , Panas( a type of jackfruit, the leaves shredded around midriff) , beetle nuts and a lot more. Among outlandish varieties, rubber , cardamom, black pepper and vanilla were the ones on which I set my eyes for the first time.

This part of the country is quite unfamiliar save for a knowledge that people are hospitable and brave. They contribute a substantial support to the country’s armed forces. Soft rays of the early morning sun shot through drifting smudge of clouds and the foliage high up.

The green canopy had started to thin out pouring a shower of old leaves. Fresh new sprouts replaced them heralding the onset of Spring. It was mid February and nature started to look up bright and blooming. We reached Madikeri, the nearest outpost to Coorg coffee plantations by 10 in the morning .

This was a place of rain forests receiving a heavy spell of annual showers . We took a cab to the homestay located in the middle of coffee farm. Half an hour’s drive and we were in the Estate. The cottage was impressive, the interiors well furnished. In consultation with our hosts we drew up our travel plans.

It was a brief three days vacation with an intent to cover as much ground as feasible. First day would be spent in Dubare Elephant Camp and Tibetan Monastery at Bylakuppe, ending the days trip with the sunset viewing over river Tala Cauveri and Raja’s seat.
The second day was to be completely devoted to Iruppu waterfalls and Nagarhole wildlife sanctuary.

Mr and Mrs Prasad were a wonderful host. Days were spent in sightseeing and nights over rounds of coffee with interesting conversation on subtle crafts of coffee farming, local culture and places of interest.

We were served the local cuisine where pork formed the principal meat. A second meat that was popular was lamb. In fact the number of pig butcheries’ in Coorg reminded me of pork stalls set along Guwahati – Shillong road.

Our first stop was Dubare . Drive was along a stretch of silt strewn with boulders, undulations and dense woods closing in on either side. It was a reserve forest known for spectacular range of avian fauna. An elephant ride point and training camp on the banks of river Cauvery had made this place a popular tourist haunt.

Unfortunately the giant pachyderms’ were out on business carrying tourists atop their backs. Huge mounds of poop marked a trail of movement and were finally lost behind rock and bush. Angling buffs focused efforts on harvest from the river. Mahaseer is found in plenty .

They are big and tasty and prized throughout the region. License from Coorg wildlife association is mandatory for fishing in Cauvery. Limited time frame and tight budget kept us away from the tempting opportunity for water rafting.

Cauvery Nishargadhama was our next stop. It was an amazing place to visit especially those with kids. We had our 6 year old with us . He was bubbling with enthusiasm and there were strong reasons for him to be jumpy and frolicking with fun. The place was predominantly occupied by bamboo grove.

Enclosed within, were separate enclosures for deer , rabbit and peacock parks. What we couldn’t get in Dubare was achieved here. We had an elephant ride though the span was only for a short 10 minutes covering about 400 meters of parkland. A lake was cut across the park through center and a bridge hung over it running end to end.

Half an hours’ boating at the lake was an amusing experience.Water was far from crystal clear and mostly covered with floating reeds. We felt hungry and exhausted from boating but our flesh and mind was pepped up craving for more.

Next destination was Namdroling Tibetan Monastery at Bylakuppe that took around one hour ride along fast roads with a splendid backdrop. The abrupt and dramatic presence of stubby coffee bushes and sight of tall trees interlaced with pepper vines was jaw dropping.

The monastery has an imposing structure. This place is the second largest settlement of Tibetans in India after Dharamsala. The temple complex is immense with a 40 feet high gilded statues of Buddha Sakyamuni and Guru Rinpoche. Temple tower is richly decorated and walls are painted with elaborate murals taken from Jataka lore.

Depictions of Deities and Demons from Tibetan mythology added to the temple frippery. Here we relished vegetarian lunch , hot and fresh and insanely tasty. At the outskirts of the monastery we encountered rhesus macaques. Deceitfully harmless the harlequin in these cart-wheeling primates is too dangerous to be funny. A large portion of their thought process is committed to shenanigans. We warily avoided the troop keeping safe distance.

The sun had now inclined to the West and the temperature dropped by a few degrees Celsius. Wrapped in light woolens we moved ahead in the direction of Raja’s seat , the point from where some amazing sunset viewing was guaranteed.

The seat is perched on an elevated platform from where the evening sky looked surreal. The sun was a massive burning ball and had shot in its fury, the color of fire. It was doozy, holding a kind of rendezvous between us and the divine.

Mellow rays of the setting sun had drenched the cliffs and valleys in fiery red clearly explaining the reason for this being a favorite haunt for kings of Coorg. We reached homestay late that night and were treated to a sumptuous dinner of ghee rice and lamb curry , rounding up with some yummy home made desserts.

Post dinner conversation break with the hosts and other guests was concise as we called it a day to an amazing evening. Excitement of visiting the Nagarhole national park next day was blinking inside us. Next morning, the second day of our Coorg vacation, we started early, our first destination being the Irupu Falls.

We parked our car half a kilometre away from the cascading falls and continued on foot. The place was all immaculate beauty with rocks , boulders and thriving greenery being the primary elements, needs of civilization were secondary.

Nature has sculpted the place with a creative zeal and what has come up was of incomparable artistry. Steps ran up to the source of the waterfalls. It was quite a trek, climbing around 130 rocky steps slippery from moss.

The environment was too scenic to be captured within the limits of a 5*3 digital screen. As we approached the source, thunderous rattle was deafening. Having spent some time up there, we managed to capture some dimmed yet wonderful moments through our lens and started on downhill trek. Needless to say, that trek left us very hungry.

Lunch was simple and quick, keeping in mind Nagarhole visit. Rushed towards Nagarhole, driving past enchanting scenery of rivers, streams, green dales, hills and forests. The cabbie took off at full throttle as he dragged hard on his cigar.

We reached the Nagarhole entrance around 11 am. The path into backwoods was edged out with tall trees. Beyond the first line of trees lay open grassy plains that was again fringed by a second layer of vegetation. This was thicker and possibly sheltered wildlife. One could smell thrill in the air with all eyes narrowed and focused on dense undergrowth to catch a glimpse of our evasive wild hosts.

Our ride wasn’t allowed beyond a point blocked by a gate barrier. We walked up about fifty meters to a ticket counter for boarding safari bus. Booking counter was shut and it was a long wait on a sun drenched spacious ground covered with trimmed grass. The counter opened shortly to a rush for tickets.

Ride started and bus moved deeper into the jungle. 15 minutes have passed and a herd of chitals came into view. They were busy feeding,unmindful of the tourists. This was a sanctuary not to expect threat from visitors. Bus stopped and cameras clicked.

Trees were huge and creepers ran up clinging to the thick trunks.Grey langurs in large tribes swung in boughs. You like or not Langurs are in abundance and you fail to spot your favourite animal in the wild despite your best efforts and expectations. A bad stroke of luck is your companion.

Forest cover grew tightly packed and a sodden bed of rotting leaves and stumps of fallen trees made the ground squishy. Decaying fronds collected on the forest floor had an overgrowth of mushrooms and moss. On the putrid twigs and slippery foliage fresh dry leaves dropped setting up an eternal cycle of ecosystem monitored by nature.

As we traveled further, dense woodlands had receded to a scanty chaparral. We stopped by a lake, its water green from algae. Sight we expected the least was of three tortoises cuddled peacefully around a dead tree stub partly submerged in water.

A philharmonic of melody around us sounded exotic. Warble of birds,ceaseless chirp of crickets and screeching of macaques had set up a jungle symphony that wasn’t too bad on our ears. The bus moved ahead occasionally stopping at breath taking landscapes for photo session.

We rode past a compressed growth of bamboo orchard and the green lake came into view again. Far in the distance at the bank of the lake stood a lone tusker. Bus stopped and shutters clicked. The elephant was frozen in time like a despotic monarch caring a fig for bus load of tourists. Only a stroke of luck can give you a glimpse of a tiger in an Indian jungle and Nagarhole was no exception. Nevertheless, the ride couldn’t be more exciting.

Pristine nature was a welcome break from bustling city life. By the time our Nagarhole trip was over it was 4-15 in the evening. We were back to the homestay after sun down. Our hosts had cooked pulav with a lot of garnishing and vegetable side dishes. Home made sweets were a hell of a treat ! Next morning was programmed to show us the coffee plantation before departure. Estate owner had promised to drop us at Madikeri in his jeep.

The day of departure was no different, being misty as usual. A little later fog cleared and sunlight beamed in. Our guide to the plantation was a lad Ganesh, the garden supervisor. And along came one of those guard dogs . We froze in place but Ganesh assured us of no threat patting the dog gently.

Plantation was up on a slightly higher terrain flanking the homestay resort backyard. Coorg coffee is excellent in taste . It is mild and grows in shade of Rosewood, wild fig and panas trees. The trees keep soil intact and anchored firm, setting up the nitrogen cycle as well.

The atmosphere was laden with a very pleasant fragrance given off by white coffee flowers that blossom in February. November is the plucking season when ripe red beans are harvested for drying. “The basic strains are Arabica and Robusta ” the supervisor rode on a lengthy sermon finding his comfort zone in technicalities of coffee farming, its history, prospects and current issues.

For an honest opinion I was more engrossed with wonderful vista around me. The sweet fragrance was everywhere. Not only the coffee blossoms, it could be the vanilla too, contributing towards a feel good ambiance.

We finished our round of plantation trip hastily, keeping in mind Mangalore bound bus from Madikeri left at 11. After a reluctant farewell we sped towards the Madikeri bus terminus putting as much miles as possible between the estate and our speeding jeep.

Vallone Vineyard – Discovering Wine Tourism in India

The eight-hour journey to the Sahyadri mountains had left everyone cramped in the sweltering minibus hungry and tired – a deadly combination for us, fledglings to Indian travel and transport. Nothing could alleviate our choleric temperament, or so we thought. But the longing to experience an Indian version of wine tourism, however, kept me energetic to some extent.

The exuberant myriad of blues and greens from the gentle slopes covered in foliage to the clear cloudless sky and the sparse peppering of red and purple hibiscus around the valleys and the edges of the serene waters of Mukhne Dam would certainly make for a very successful Gogh painting but wasn’t enough to put our exhausted minds to rest. The cool consolatory breeze did lift my spirits a little but presently, all I needed, in fact, all we needed, was some sustenance. So you can imagine the gargantuan wave of relief and delight that washed over us as we entered an amalgam of various smells of seafood and garlic wafting in the warm kitchen air and the musical sounds of sizzling meat in butter.

Unfortunately, this paradise would have to wait. Lugging our suitcases up the staircase we reached the topmost floor of the cottage to a promising view of the picturesque landscape around us. My hunger-crazed brain really needed a minute to fully take account of the breathtaking view ahead.

A huge verandah furnished with a few sofas awaited us, looking into the greenery outside. There was no civilisation for miles! Just endless grassy knolls with paddy fields circumscribing the lake and a lone shack in the midst of the planes with wild roosters crowing excitedly on the roof to harmonise with the baritone soulful mooing of a huge chocolate cow.

Just below, however, was the prized Vallonne Vineyard with small bunches of sour little grapes scattered among the vines here and there. To be honest, this looked fairly ordinary compared to the majestic mountain range before us. An embarrassingly ferocious growl broke this reverie as I realized how empty my stomach was.

The menu looked enticing but we were sceptical that the food would really be as succulent as our other senses perceived; there wasn’t any civilisation for miles and this also meant no marketplaces! However, every gastronome out there will agree that the food here tastes even better than it captivates any other sense.

The different white and rosé wines to accompany the huge buttery lobsters and the spicy tender chicken were also surprisingly good for a vineyard that isn’t so old. The food was happily received and induced everyone into a peaceful slumber in the lull of the evening breeze. But being in a place so far from the bustling throngs I was used to with only an orchestra of crickets to accompany me made it too irresistible to explore.

Thankfully, a trip had been arranged with the owner of the vineyard to do a little wine tasting and try and scrutinize the grapevines as intelligently as possible to look at least faintly interested in his passionate and proud raving about the complex process of winemaking.

His unusual assortment of wine (especially the dessert wine) had caught the sight and taste buds of millions across India and this rapid success had given him hopes of exporting into foreign countries too, to aid the very slow growing economy of India.

Unfortunately for him, he was cut short because July was not the harvesting season and so the grapes were still too tangy to be tasted. This meant I would have more time to appreciate the undervalued Indian countryside which was equally as resplendent as any Tuscan landscape.

The wan glow of the full moon had completely metamorphosed the cool emerald shades of the hills from the brighter, more ebullient sunlight even though it wasn’t quite dusk yet. The swollen clouds overhead shed a slight mauve hue on the slopes as the pearlescent moon competed against an orange setting sun, reflecting a fine rainbow sheen on the lake and as Mukhne Dam rippled in the short bursts of the wind, a kaleidoscope of colours danced and glittered on the otherwise still waters.

An eerie silence cloaked us in all directions, a sharp contrast from the city of Bombay, and this reminded me again with a thrill that we were completely and utterly alone — save for the kitchen staff. The path to the lake meandered past the wet grass and slopes, as my footprints were left imprinted onto the blood red clay, and the lonely shack with two farmers toiling endlessly on a marshy paddy.

Monsoon in Goa

Crystal drops of rain water slid off long blades of grass and I drained the last bit of coffee from a mug bought from the Arpora night market. A snail was crawling up a wooden stump covered with sprouting fungi leaving a slimy moist trail.

The Arpora mug was an exquisitely designed piece having biblical engravings. The rain stopped but clouds kept gathering across an overcast sky. It was Palolem in monsoon, the South Goan beach close to Karnataka state border where I chose to rent a Konkani cottage not far from the Arabian Sea.

You can capture Goa from a different angle of beauty during the monsoon. The nonstop clatter of rains pouring down on your shanty roof top and lush vegetation responding to this bewitching spell of the wet season is mesmerizing. The green belt flanked in between the sea and the Western Ghats is in full blossom.

Your long standing notion that Goa is blessed just with the sun, sea and sand is not enough to describe the tourist potential of this tiny Indian state. There is a lot more to it and monsoon unravels its bounty, endowing the state with a breathtaking spell of a picturesque getaway that the tourists find irresistible.

The thick sylvan landscape, the distant Western Ghats shrouded in nimbus clouds, verdurous and populated with wildlife, the roaring sea where the distant horizon turns blurry as the sea and grey sky overlaps and certainly the zesty Goan cuisine with a round of local swig offers a terrific combo.

Monsoon sky is a riot of colors in the evening when not raining. Perhaps moisture in air splits the sunlight into its primary components radiating stunning shades. Sunset on a monsoon sea is a million dollar seascape.

The national highways cutting across Goa are too good to be true. Drive from Palolem to Calangute in the north is a slice of splendid travel. Once I was on my way to this much talked about sea beach of Calangute, I found it gorgeous and a little over crowded but Palolem would still rank as number 1 in my bucket list.

Rains had enhanced the beauty of the enchanting landscape. Occasional temples and churches came into view as I drove further up. Parallel to the highways, about a couple of kilometers to the east, runs the Konkan railway track. The air is clean and fresh washed by spells of driving rain and nature left unspoiled.

Cashew plants grow wild and all pervasive without much commercial effort as seen in an organized plantation. The rainy season is long from end May to September and the showers storm in deep and heavy downpours.

If you thought monsoon is a bland season forcing you to stay indoors, come over to Goa you will have to think over again and amend your impression. Here we go with some of the most eye-catching Goan destinations in monsoon:

Doodhsagar waterfalls:

Dudhsagar

This is a hidden gem of the Western Ghats burgeoning in a wild beauty of epic proportions. The tumbling waterfalls fed by monsoon rains look indeed like a moving sea of milk. It runs down the rocky terrain with a thunderous boom drenching everyone close by.

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The lush cover of herbages and creepers through which the railway tunnel runs drilling through hard rock adds to the scenic charm. You have the stimulating opportunity to explore wet nature all dressed up in a rain proof jacket with the nonstop drizzle falling in regular and rhythmic beats. One definite advantage of traveling to Goa in monsoon is you will find it less packed out and you can deal for accommodation at prices way too cheaper compared to peak season rentals.

Mollem National Park:

Molem

The park lies to the north eastern peripheral limits of Goa and again the Karnataka state border stands close by. In monsoon, the park is open to tourists as it is in drier seasons but with a difference.

The plant life spreads its green labyrinth with a fresh shot of vital spark injected. We had spent a night in the cottages and explored the verdurous jungle during the day. A general silence can be felt entering the deep interior which is contagious.

Bondla

It will leave the tourists mute and tense! Covered with thick and tall deciduous rain forests the park provides shelter to tigers, leopards, Gaurs, Indian rock pythons, king cobras and a variety of birds including the great Indian hornbill.

Tigers in Goa it sounds like a fancied fairy-tale! The beach destination was supposed to feature the eternal blue with surfing, swimming and a lot of booze to go with. Jungle safaris are a prime attraction in Mollem.

We hoped to see thrilling wild life but had to console ourselves with the sight of a few peacocks and a herd of sambhars. Nevertheless, the trip into the forest had tense moments. The food at the cottages is reasonably good. I recall having a mixed bag of Goan cuisine during the day and chicken sizzlers at night.

Baga beach:

Black clouds drifting aimlessly over a fine stretch of sandy carpet and streaks of lightning blinking across a dark grey sky describes what Baga would look like during monsoon. The foreigners are mostly gone may be a handful still left behind who could not yet shake off the charm Goa had cast upon them.

The beachfront shacks have all been dismantled and the crowd had thinned away much to your relief when you are left alone facing the roaring sea. Before entering the beach stands a concrete tunnel making Baga look a little different from other beaches.

Not far from the sea is a jungle guitar workshop. You can craft your instrument from raw wood, fashion it to your sweetest desires and play the strings to the patter of a melodious downpour. For a side kick, get a bottle of cashew feni to keep you high and happy.

It is simply wild and exhilarating lifting your mood to a rising crescendo of delirium. Make sure the guitar workshop is not closed down for the monsoon. If your anticipation turns real you can always get yourself drenched to the skin by heavy torrents standing all alone right on the beach. It is wild and ecstatic as well!

Goan Forts:

The stone bastions of Goa built by the Portuguese settlers are mind boggling. The monsoon rains give them an enigmatic look. They are a direct lift from movies featuring creepy castles with hair raising legends and damnable tales to tremble by.

Take a proper focus through your lens at the Aguada fort in monsoon. The clouded sky in the background lit by streaks of lightning makes it a smash hit for awesome photo opportunities. The rumble in the sky adds to the atmosphere.

There are other citadels too. You can scale the Chapora Fort and take a breathtaking view of the Vagator beach. The distant vista is a surreal mix of clouds sailing across a dark grey sky turning the swelling waters of the sea darker. The horizon is fuzzy making it hard to figure out exactly where the sky had melted into the violent waters. Fort Reis Magos is equally delectable for that matter. Watch out for your steps! Rains support the growth of moss making steps slippery and wet.

Palolem:

Palolem

Palolem beach in monsoon is quite attractive. Though it is among the lesser known beaches of Goa, it has a unique charisma. Located in south Goa, it is about 10 kilometers away from Karnataka state border. Locals call it Cancun hardly aware that real Cancun is way different in location and culture. The beach is ideally suited for a long stroll in monsoon drizzle.

If you are adventurous, you may even go for a swim but stay close to the shore as the waters are turbulent. How about trying a plate of fried Surmai or calamari rings with the drink of your choice? The rains would start a melody in the outside as the food and beverage take you to heights of gastronomic rapture. I have tried it often it is awesome.

Nightlife in Goa

Goa and nightlife are inseparable and without a grain of doubt the state offers the most pulsating nightlife choices in the country. In fact, the state is inclined towards a western mode of life, thanks to the Portuguese colonization of Goa and long settlement of a substantial size of Portuguese population.

As the sun goes low on the horizon and the fiery red ball of fire takes a dip in the Arabian Sea, Goa wakes up with blinking neon, bewitching music, a mix of continental cuisine, lip-smacking sea food and local delicacies.

The ambiance is laced with a loud psychedelic overtone that will enchant you with razzle dazzle color and a distinct flavor that is mostly international in character. Japanese, Uruguayans, Israelis, Americans, Europeans and the local crowd mingle in an explosion of fun and frolic livening up the nights in a wild euphoria of extreme delight.

Goa nights are exciting and they are a wonderful fusion of a mixed bag of cultural diversity. The ambiance is so viral you will find yourself doing something under a starlit Goan sky. Night exhilaration range from socialization with people from different continents, gambling at a Casino, taking part at a night beach side barbecue or simply boozing at a beachfront shack gazing at the eternal blue.

Night life in Goa can be associated with the following mind blowing experiences that attract tourists over and over again to savour this tiny state’s heart throbbing incitements.

Beach Shacks:

In Goa, Beach shacks are ubiquitous. They dot in plenty along the exotic beaches in high season. During the span of Oct to March tourists come pouring in and Beach shacks are almost booked out to capacity. They satisfy everyone whether you are a group of friends, couples, honeymooners, family members or even if you are all alone. Although they offer small scale accommodation there is no dearth of music , romantic lights , cocktail and a choice of excellent food.

Night clubs and Discotheques:

These cater to party animals and general tourists as well. Club Tito is the most famous and oldest of them all overlooking the mesmerizing Baga beach it is one of the most sensational spot for socialization at night. A wonderful blend of wine, dance and music keep the nights throbbing with life. Choicest of cuisines leave you pampered.

Bars and Pubs:
Goa is famous for bars and pubs. They are scattered everywhere built in style and decor. You can almost drink till late night with exotic seafood of your choice. Local calamari and king fish preparation adds to the zing making nightlife exciting at a Goan bar.

Saturday night flea market for shopping addicts:

Every Saturday Arpora night flea market remains open from 6 pm till midnight. A wide range of exotic merchandises are on sale covering clothing, shoes , herbs, carpets , home decors and lot more. You simply name it and they have it for you.

Party cruises:

You cannot imagine Goa without a spectacular night cruise on boat. You have opportunity to dance to the tune of electrifying music and go wild while your cruise cuts across the night water. There are sea and river cruises and they are all big time fun.