Padatik express was scheduled to depart for NJP (New Jalpaiguri Station) at 10-45 at night. It was a cold and smoggy witching hour before Christmas. NJP was only a night’s journey but as you never know when this slowcoach will reach you to your destination, a worry gnawed inside me. Fear of vacation time being drastically cut for late arrival would be too much to swallow. The express train was shamelessly doing justice to its name Padatik (traveler on foot) with religious irregularity.
Jaldapara had been in my bucket list since ages and we booked our trip well in advance. Jungles have always been my favourite stopover in between backbreaking treadmill of life. This is a National Park in Northern part of West Bengal at the banks of river Torsa.
The name portrays a familiar picture: tourists on elephant back stranded in a hair-raising showdown with an obstinate Indian one horned rhino about to charge! We set our foot in NJP around noon next day.
Locating our car to Holong Eco Resort was a delayed and frustrating exercise by itself followed by an exchange of phone calls and a string of silent cuss words. Car would take 4 hours and we were in no mood to starve. Cancelled our resort lunch booking and opted to have some grub en route. Bapi da’s cabin was driver’s recommendation. It was almost an hours’ drive after crossing Teesta barrage.
The restaurant owner was a local celebrity, his team of culinary geniuses toiled day and night working miracle in the greasy and claustrophobic kitchen. We had rice and generous helpings of spicy lamb. Now that we were appeased, the long rough ride flanked by tea gardens on either side had stirred up our feelings. Holong showed up around 4-30.
Khairbari Leopard rehabilitation center was just cut out for an interesting exposure to wildlife habitat that I was looking for. A fenced corridor was all that separated the wild cats from civilization, with enclosures covered in dense foliage. Khairbari was lot more than just a zoo. Thick forest thrived within the animal confines and on the outside too.
Sun set viewing offered terrific photo opportunities and the place had a look of picnic spot in a wintry noon. The centre housed around 15 wild leopards and Bengal tigers. They were mostly rescued from the forests of Dooars and Bhutan foothills.
Two tigers were from Sunderbans. Injury and senile decay would have killed these beasts unless timely intervention by forest department proffered help. Some had been destined for lifelong banishment in circuses. Morbid glimpse into the depths of animal misery in circuses manifest the quality of life within painted tents. And before the trainer’s whip! They have at last found a peaceful abode in Khairbari.
We walked along a long stretch of grassy pathway with an idyllic setting so far as eyesight would permit. It was a large circular track around, enclosing a menagerie at the center. Ample greenery somehow helped animals overcome the melancholy of habitat loss.
To our right flew the narrow sliver of ‘Buri Torsa’ river where occasional boating was allowed. On the left, lay feline enclosures. A creepy silence hung in the air. We walked for about two hundred meters before we could catch glimpse of a sleeping leopard. A little larger than a Doberman, but the size of paws made the difference!
We were outside the cage but not safe! Sign of rage was everywhere. An elephant had come out of the forest the previous night and had snapped overhanging twigs. A trail of destruction followed the animal’s footprints. A second assault would leave us with no other option but clamber the feline enclosure. Tigers weren’t visible possibly resting in shade of lair.
Tense moments passed and one of them stood up and made a stifled growl. It was a tigress that had suffered a recent miscarriage, we learnt. Dead cub foetus had been safely taken out by caesarean saving mother’s life. Deeper we went more desolate we felt. The nearest visitors to the centre were at least fifty meters from us.
We heard their voices, intensity of tone reduced by distance. Chance of second appearance of the mastodon clung to my mind with an icy cold dread. Evolution through ages might have shrunk their sizes but not the vicious instinct. We decided to retreat and made it fast.
Another tiger enclosure was only a few minutes walk from the entrance. We had missed it in a hurried curiosity to witness the aftermath of elephant going manic. Nothing was visible; an empty piece of grassland lay across a moat. Tiger was certainly on the other side hiding somewhere. This side of the moat a five feet concrete wall ran close to the fence circling the entire enclosure.
Unsettlingly powerful, a stench hit us instantly with a scary apprehension that in absence of breeze how come the stink travel up to us from lair? A few minutes have passed when a massive shape of orange emerged from the moat. It’s rear side directly facing us. First the huge muzzle, the powerful shoulders, hindquarters and gradually the whole beast came into view.
It had been very close to us cooling off in water that explained the overpowering stench. The animal had been blocked from vision by the skirt wall. This was a large tiger. Sun threw long silhouette of the animal on grassland. The setting sun in the background blended with an uncanny threatening snarl building up the atmosphere. The beast was probably hungry. We backed out and boarded the car after a few quick camera shots. Destination was the Hollong Eco Village resort.
Khairbari rescue centre is a constructive endeavour, nursing back infirmed large cats to health and happiness. Illegal poaching is yet another plight through which wildlife population is going. It’s hard for forest officials to fix an overnight solution to the issue. Gradually, things are looking up. Let’s see how everything pans out for future.
We reached resort within an hour and the staff organized refreshments and mild hot tea. Without much preamble we reached important points quickly straight after tea; discussed itinerary, local interests and the safari at Jaldapara wildlife sanctuary.
Resort management promised every support but flatly refused offering any help in the safari and getting tickets. We have to do it all by ourselves. This was an unpleasant surprise. The tour agent had promised otherwise. Was it a kind of tourist trap now that we have been in their grip? They were trying to pull wool over our eyes to squeeze some extra buck !
Dinner at the resort was good. Chicken, chapattis and Dal and before that authorities had arranged a small bonfire in the front yard and a huge Christmas cake adding to the charm of a typical Christmas night . The fire had comforted us against shivering cold but the uncertainty of safari gave us niggling discomfort.
The resort is in the lap of nature. You cross the boundary fence you are inside dense jungle. We would explore it and the surroundings first thing tomorrow at the break of dawn. Early next morning, it was bone chillingly cold. We put on jumpers and walked towards the jungle that had commenced from the edge of resort boundary.
Once inside the forest, it was mute and peaceful. Broad-leafed evergreens grew rife. The soft sunlight had burned away the pre dawn moisture exposing a colossal quiet domain where boondocks ruled. Unknown species of orchids and creepers hung intertwined.
At ground level vegetation, grew up to man height that trapped low ground fog. We went further deep and were completely mesmerized by the beauty creation had bestowed upon nature shrouding it with mystery. We had been travelling on foot all the way and had to be careful stumbling on fallen sprigs and slippery earth.
A stream flowed by. The water was cold and crystal showing pebbles and strands of vegetation washed down from the distant hills. We made good use of soft light and the lens. It was breath-taking and packed with thrill .Sight of mounds of elephant droppings alarmed us. They came over so close to resort in a feeding frenzy. Further venture would be risky! These are wild rogues. They won’t deliver any benefit to us. We retreated back and reached the resort by 7 am.
My video shoot continued capturing many other interesting elements. Next morning, at the breakfast table, the resort owner enquired about my video shoots. Suspicion in eyes reflected inner guilt. His attitude last night had been a little rude on safari issue. News of my working for the media sort of straightened up things for us.
Things worked at an enthused pace. Process of garbage disposal sped up. Behavior of staff had turned courteous. Food was served with extra care. It wasn’t surprising when some extra plates of meat went wandering around tables before being set before us. We modestly refused any favor not paid for.
At times you need to hammer the nails in place. Needless to say, soon came the obvious concurrence to take care of our safari with all official formalities. It was worded by the owner with firm commitment. What the resort lacked in its primary dealing with customer was later ponied up by outstanding service.
Safari booking office at Holong was crawling with tourists. We reached here soon after breakfast. Two trips were made in a day for duration of 2 hours each. Early morning 5-7 am trip was in great demand. Chance of wildlife viewing was high. Evening trip from 3-30 to 5-30 pm pulled less crowd.
Tickets were available for evening trip, but dawn safari would be booked out shortly after the ticket counter opens. We opted for the dawn trip and that was possible only the next morning. Ticket counter would open at 6 pm. We had adequate time and our cab driver fixed a local guy on tips to get a proxy for us in booking queue. Meanwhile, we could make a quick trip to Phuentsholing, the first town crossing the international border into Bhutan.
Road to Phuentsoling snaked along the outer realm of eastern Himalayas. We drove past a Bazar crowded with locals and shops. Liquor shops were rampant. Merchandise ranged from slices of pork to tiny replicas of Buddha. As we rode higher up the mercury started dropping. On the way lay a crocodile farm. Long snouted Gharials and salt water crocks lay in sun. They were well fed and big.
Phuentsoling Monastery was an ornate cluster of stupas and structures that evoked faith. Prayer flags flapped in gentle breeze setting up a silent communion with the celestial. Buddhism is the primary religion in Bhutan. An element of devotion prevailed. We tossed around enormous brass prayer wheels of the Monastery murmuring our desires with intense mindfulness.
Phuentsoling was done. We drove back to Jaldapara safari booking counter around 3 in the afternoon followed by a long wait. Elephant safari was out of question. It is reserved for those put up in Holong guesthouse. We battled for the gypsy safari.
The much awaited Holong Safari !
Ticket counter opened sharp at 6 in the evening and what initially followed was bedlam until a couple of local goons enforced order in the queue. Tickets procured and we retired early keeping in mind the next day’s morning safari commenced at 5 am.
26th December. It was still dark and nipping cold. My watch read 4-30 a.m. We prepared hurriedly in the freezing dusk groping our way to the resort restaurant. Hot tea laced with a dash of ginger early dawn was invigorating.
Resort car arrived and it reached us to an open ground adjacent to the safari booking counter. Rows of gypsies were parked and from here safari would start. Located our vehicle by the number printed on tickets and sat inside. Safari guide and rest of the family occupied rear end. It was still dark when the vehicles entered the forest in a close convoy.
A bitumen road was cut right through the sanctuary and our vehicle sped along. Huge trees grew on both sides. The jungle was inky green. The sky had started to clear and a faint pink impression announced day break. The light was tender and not enough for clear visibility . Vehicle’s headlights shot a pair of strong glimmer. Birds chirped and the morning chill clung like icy sheets.
Thick bushes were ubiquitous and a shallow ravine was bridged by a collapsed deciduous tree. Could be work of unauthorized lumbering. Timber smugglers sometimes sneak into the forest evaluating and exploiting commercial opportunities.
Clashes and conflicts with forest guards do happen. Chances of collusion with forest staff cannot be ruled out opening up lucrative contacts with forest wealth that they don’t hesitate to amass. But this one looked like it had been struck by thunder.
The forest had a mixed floral character. Savannah land and tall elephant grasses occupied a substantial area. Tall forest included teak, Sal, shishu and many others which I could not identify.
The vehicle abruptly halted when the guide threw a powerful beam from torch to our right. Almost sunk in neck deep vegetation, a hog deer silently fed on succulent grass. We paused for a minute or two and proceeded forward. Soft morning light lit up the surrounding herbages.
After about a quarter of an hours’ ride we met the first rhinoceros. It was quietly feeding and was set alert upon our arrival. Quite surprisingly, despite its bulk a rhino can break into an explosive run. Their stealth is prodigious and rhinos are competent of exceptional brutality. Over courtship rights males fight each other inflicting deep lacerating wounds.
Only a few months back a forest officer was found in the bush. Body showed deep injuries. Nature of wounds point a finger towards a rhino attack! The large animal looked like an army tank. It emerged from the forest, crossed the bitumen road and melted into the thick shrubbery on the other side. Adrenaline rush was peaking and we parked in an open area beside which stood an animal observation tower.
Close by, an elephant was tied to a stout tree trunk. The animal belonged to the forest department. It had recently turned rogue killing two Mahouts. It was going through a punishment session being fed lesser ration of fodder. Wonder if jungle crew are secured by insurance cover. Insulation against these casualties is imperative if not already available to the family of the deceased.
Climbed the watchtower. Vast stretches of grassland with occasional overgrowth of plants spread out so far as vision could take us. Panorama was breath-taking and the faraway hills offered a spectacular backdrop.
Grazing rhinos at a distance brought some excitement. Tourists on the watchtower tried to zoom in the animals to focus. It was amusing to watch these creatures. They wore a prehistoric look and were engaged in a playful squabble.
A sudden yell had broken my trance. A herd of wild elephants had been sighted within a kilometer. We rushed to the spot and saw the herd from a distance of 25 meters. The bull was shoulder deep in grass and possibly furious with our intrusion. We were lucky that a huge fallen teak wood trunk was in its line of attack blocking any further advancement towards us.
We realized, despite its bulk how skulking an elephant could be. In most of the cases, the target becomes aware of its presence just before the enormous mass pounds on him. The victim generally doesn’t survive to narrate his experience. My watch showed 6-45 am. Safari was coming to an end. Our vehicle raced for the sanctuary’s exit gate with a troop of macaques chasing us with mischievous intent.
simplyroam 